Along the wild paths of Rhodope Mountains
Did you know that large herds of cattle of the rare breed called short-horned Rhodope cattle graze freely in the Eastern part of the Rhodope Mountain, alongside the Karakachan sheep, famous with its long, fluffy fur. Imported from The Netherlands, wild horses, known as Tarpans gallop across the mountain meadows, and the vultures that hover high up in the skies have turned into real „celebrities”, which are often in the focus of the cameras of ornithologists from all around the world. This is one of the few wild places in Europe that remained untouched by uncontrollable urbanization in Europe.
It is good news that municipalities as Madzharovo and Krumovgrad, situated near the Greek border remain unaffected by large-scale tourism, and because of that you will rarely come across the typical enticements of the modern consumer. Forget about the supermarkets and the billboards that spoil the beauty of the landscape, the fast food chains, disco clubs, pubs, souvenir stands and so on. In this recess of the mountain you can barely see any hotels! You are more likely to come across a village guest house, equipped with everything you may need for a romantic holiday in the countryside. You have another option as well-to hire a villa. In some places you can rent a renovated country house, which from the outside looks exactly as most old-times soiled houses. However, inside they are very well equipped with luxurious bedrooms and fireplaces, modern kitchens with stoves, refrigerators and other utilities. In other words this is a great option to spend your holiday in the countryside, in the company of your beloved ones, and the comfort you are used to live in. And if you like peace and quiet, you would probably appreciate the fact that most of the villages here have only 40-50 residents, while others have become desolate for many years now. In the vicinity of Madzharovo, once being a mining village, there are only 500 residents and the population of birds dominates over human population. Within a territory of 20 square kilometers you can see 70 percent of all birds of prey, which inhabit our continent. Among them are the notorious white-headed, black headed and the Egyptian vulture, species that both ornithologists and explorers love to memorize in their cameras. At spring the suburbs of Madzharovo shine in purple, red and magenta colors. This is the season of the orchid, which blossoms within the territory of the protected zone Valchi dol. As you can guess by the name of the preserve, wolfs roam through it, so beware! And don’t miss the chance to visit the Green centre near Madzharovo, where you can be told stories about the birds’ world in that region and see where some of the most extinct birds nest. Dutchman Frank Zenderink, who is a coordinator of the Bulgarian-Dutch project of sustained development of the region, is confident that the Eastern Rhodope Mountains have all the potential to become a leading tourist eco destination in Europe.
Not only Dutch people, but French, Germans, Scandinavians, and recently more Bulgarians visit this blessed by mother- nature region. Many refuse to share their experience in order to preserve that place in its current state, far from the incursion of the modern tourism. Take a walk along the course of river Arda and fill your senses with extraordinary views, bird songs and a scent of wild flowers and herbs. Its clear waters work their way in the foot of rocky peaks, forming magnificent meanders of almost unreal beauty.
The asphalt road that swings along its sandy shores takes you to virgin places, where mainly elderly people inhabit quarters, far away from the crowded cities. Those residents view the tourists as predators, coming from another age. They are quite hospitable though and always meet the stranger with a wide smile on their face and delicious meals. If you stay at the guesthouse in the village of Gorno pole for instance, you will experience the taste of beef, steamed in a pumpkin and the so called Banitza with grits. The hosts are mainly farmers. In their farms they breed the rare species of shorthorn buffalo and the Karakachan sheep, which graze freely in the suburbs of the village, thus becoming an irrevocable part of the the local landscape. The place around the desolate village of Sbor, situated in the middle of nowhere, brings nostalgia over the past. Not far from the remains of its houses, which have been ruined by natural forces, a stud of wild horses, or the so called Tarpans wanders about. They were brought from Holland last year in order to graze and recover the natural ecosystems, and have already turned into a tourist attraction. Another attraction form this region are the local costumes that shine in all colors of the rainbow. The locals keep these costumes in old closets and wardrobes, to wear them only on holidays. This is the time when all people dance in small steps the so called Horo dance (chaindance), with the accompaniment of the Rhodope Kaba (or low pitched) Bagpipe. And everyone who wants to take part in this amusement is more than welcome!
Text and photo: bnr.bg
(28.05.2012)